CREATING A CORSET TOP

I had this special piece of Moschino fabric left over, that was used for a long Cowl neck dress for a customer some years ago. 

 

So, I decided that it could be used to create this corset top and there was just enough. -And while I was at it, I recorded a little video about the process, step-by-step, that you can see on my YouTube channel.

 

The basis for this top is the dress pattern with some adjustments. I wanted to create something different and choose to keep the same length all around, like I am showing in the video.

 

Since the fabric was quite loosely woven, I doubled it with an extra layer of reinforced cotton, that was basted on and overlocked, before sewing all the pieces together.

 

 

 

This is the result for now. I just need to figure out, if it stays like this or I add several layers of black tulle.  Also if I add boning or a neck strap instead. I will take some consideration and planning. 

 

But, I will let you all know how it turns out eventually. So, stay tuned and subscribe to my channel for updates on this project.

 Design and photos, John F. Clément

 

The size of this corset top is a 40, which equals a ten in Nord American sizes. 

 

Feel free to comment or ask, if you have any questions and I will get back to you as soon as possible. In my coming videos I am open for your suggestions to relevant subjects.

DESIGN OPTIONS - three different variations

In my latest video on YouTube, I have showed you different design options, based on all the basic patterns that I have been going through in this series.

The common theme for this video, was to show the square cut flounces/skirts in different forms and shapes.

In this post, I will elaborate a little bit more about the inspiration and ideas behind these dresses.

Dress in motion, Model: Pernille, Design: John F. Clément

So, in the pink dress you see here above, I was fascinated by the light texture, color and motive of the fabric. I knew I had to make something different that would enhance all that. 

I decided to combine a classic top, based on the corset and dress pattern in this series with something simple, but very effectful, that I've used before for a Wedding dress. The full circle recipe, but with a square cut, pushed to one side to make it more dramatic.

 

In the yellow silk corset top above, the idea was to simplify the top, by constructing it in one piece with two bust darts from the waist/side. I added some boning to the inner corset, to hold it up and to keep the shape.

Again, I used the same idea, but in a different size. I moved the two flounces around on top of each other and basted them together, before adding them to the top. 

As described in the video, I added seam allowance to the circle measure, because there had to be an opening, since it's attached in the waist.

 

 

 

Model: Amanda, Design: John F. Clément

 

All Designs: John F. Clément

 

I the two last examples, the red- and the black tulle dress, I only used one long square with the hip measure to create the circle on the pattern, again with the extra seam allowance measure added to the calculation.

In the red dress, the idea was to simplify the pattern for the top. It only consists of two crossover pieces and an asymmetrical skirt, in one layer only, that has a long dramatic train. 

In the black dress, I used the same pattern as in the yellow top, just extended to the hip. For now I only added five layers of tulle; three layers of soft and two layers of stiff tulle. It is a nice contrast to the reflective fabric, I think.

You can combine this dress with either a short or long skirt. Or add more layers of tulle.

 

If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I will get back to you as soon as possible. In my coming videos I am open for your suggestions to relevant subjects. 

DRESSMAKING

 

For your inspiration only, so you can create your own personal designs.  

In my latest YouTube videos I have showed you one specific design options and three variations, based on the basic dress- and corset patterns I have demonstrated in this video series.  

Take a look at my previous videos about how to take your measure, calculate and construct a dress like this and create your own personal patterns.

The Size chart is the base for constructing all your personal patterns in this video series Because the foundation of made-to-measure clothes, is your own measurements. 

This specific corset dress, seen above, was entirely inspired by the beautiful cotton fabric that I found in Denmark some years ago. 

It has a simple and clean neckline and is build upon a inner cotton corset that is supporting and holding up the dress. It is closed with a zipper and some hooks on the side.

The corset is extended 10-12 cm inside for the attachment of the skirt lining and an extra layer of tulle, to give the skirt some volume. The dress is about a size 6, should you be interested. But something similar can of course be made upon request. Just get in touch.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I will get back to you as soon as possible. In my coming videos I am open for your suggestions to relevant subjects.

THE CORSET PATTERN

 Just a little follow-up about my new YouTube Video on: Atelier John F. Clement

After my short Introduction video and the Videos about how to take the measurements and calculate the rest, to create your own personal patterns, my demonstration until now have been about how to create a skirt-, a dress- and sleeve pattern that fits perfectly.

In the videos, I went through the Construction step-by-step. If you want to follow along and create the pattern yourself, you can download the Size Chart for free in the description under the Videos and evt. purchase the instruction, if you don't want to look at the Video over and over again.

My new video is about how you can create a corset pattern, based on the dress pattern. 

The execution of a corset is something else. To decide what kind of shape you want, what kind of material, interfacing, boning, lining and closure to choose, can be somewhat of a challenge.

Not to mention, which sewing techniques to use. There is so many ways of doing it. I recommend you to do some research; think it through and make a plan.

Here is a few examples:

Design & Photos: John F. Clément

These two couture corsets are inspired by historical corsets, just simplified. They both consists of an enforced outer layer; violet silk taffeta with hand sewn velour ribbons to enhance the shape and vintage silk. They are both boned and fully lined with lace closure and about a size 10.

Check out other corsets HERE and this old blog-post about historical corsets HERE. 

For inspiration, take a look at Designer dresses and Wedding dresses in the Menu above, to see what's possible.  

Check out the Video and let me know if you have any questions or need some help.

THE DRESS PATTERN

Just a little teaser about what to expect in my next YouTube Video on: Atelier John F. Clement

After my short Introduction video and the Videos about how to take the measurements and calculate the rest, to create your own personal patterns, my second demonstration will be about how to create a dress pattern that fits perfectly.

In the video, I will go through the Construction step-by-step. If you want to follow along and create the pattern yourself, you can download the Size Chart for free in the description under the Video and evt. purchase the instruction, if you don't want to look at the Video over and over again.

Here, I have placed the copied pattern on cheap cotton fabric, ready to be cut. 

Notice, I have moved the upper front incision to the side, by drawing a perpendicular line to the side-seam, cutting it up and closing the upper part of the front incision. You can also do that by moving the pattern, when you copy it.

Same principal with the shoulder dart on the back. Cutting up the line from the shoulder and closing the dart in the armhole. 

Photos: John F. Clément

Here is an examples of the finished fitting model! As you can see, there are only a few minor adjustments left to make it fit perfectly.

For inspiration, take a look at Designer dresses and Wedding dresses in the Menu above, to see what's possible.  

Check out the Video and let me know if you have any questions or need some help.