FASHION CRITICS

Modified picture from The Independent/Getty Images

-After looking at some of this seasons fashion shows, like Celine and Louis Vuitton, I just wonder. Where are the fashion critics of today? -And are they still relevant?

I think today's so called fashion critics are too consensual and not particularly critical, with a few exceptions. They seem only to be there to promote fashion. I guess they are afraid of loosing their privileges; like invitations and front row seats ?

For me, a real fashion critic should have a passion for fashion and design, some kind of qualifications or at least some knowledge about fashion design, savoir faire and a sense of color and materials.

They should be able to analyze and to put a collection into context, culturally and historically.

A fashion critic should be honest, independent, selective and not afraid of speaking his/her mind.

That is why we need independent papers and television channels to take this more serious. Especially today, where almost every critical comment on social media just gets deleted.

Fashion critics like Robin Givhan, Cathy Horyn and Vanessa Friedman are actually there to make sense of it all.

I prefer their qualified opinion rather than some so called random social media influencers. What about you? What do you think?

If you would like a different perspective, take a look at The Fashion Law.

BALENCIAGA - MAÎTRE DE LA COUTURE

All photos by John F. Clément

It was something I have been looking forward to since it was announced, the exhibition Balenciaga - Maître de la Haute Couture, at Musée McCord here in Montreal.
The exhibition is organized by Victoria & Albert Museum, London and presented by Holt Renfrew and Ogilvy.

Balenciaga was and still is a great source of inspiration for all designers. I have posted about him
before I even saw his creations in person. Follow this link to read previous post.
In addition the exhibition contains a full room of past and contemporary designer dresses, to show how influential he really was and still is.

For now I will just show some of the pictures I took and then eventually adding more, after I finished the book I purchased.

 

All photos by John F. Clément

If you are a fashion student, a keen home-sewer or just appreciate great, innovative and timeless design, it is a absolute must see. I am definitely going to revisit this exhibition a few more times, before it ends, Sunday October 14, 2018.

HORST - PHOTOGRAPHER OF STYLE

This exhibition at the Musée McCord here in Montreal is a Must see for everybody who appreciate style and aesthetic. . .
Horst was a creative soul and one of the twentied centery´s most famous photographers.

As I went through this exhibition, I really could relate  to almost every theme and picture I saw.
I couldn´t help thinking how eternal style and aesthetic are. . . to this day, nothing is new - everything has been done before. It´s just a matter of interpretation and consciousness.

Even some of the designs of the "ancient" couturiers would be as contemporary today. . .

The exhibition was very extensive and organised into themes and periods of his life, staged in black and white, except the big Magazine colour-photos, staged in a more minimalistic white enviroment.

 Photo´s by John Frantsen

I couldn´t help, but take a few photo´s without violating any copyrights, just to show you, what you´re missing if you don´t go.

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LEITMOTIFS

At last a new post here. . .
After moving to Montreal May 1., getting settled and painting our new appartment, I finally got time yesterday to go and see my first exhibition at Musée du costume et du textile du Quebec, at The Bonsecour market.

Always worth a visit, if you are into that kind of thing.

 All photos by John Frantsen

The exhibition Leitmotifs leads us through the most iconic patterns by presenting nearly 100 pieces from the museum’s collection alongside creations by several Québécois guest designers: Betina Lou, Coloré Design, Niapsou Design and Travis Taddeo.

"Whether floral, animal, geometric or figurative, the patterns that grace the surface of fabrics give them personality. Like textile leitmotifs, they reappear over the centuries as the art of printing evolves, pacing fashion through their use on garments and accessories."

Different textile motifs and technics, like Paysley, Chevron, Wax, Tartan, Ikat, Polka dot and Liberty were exsamples.

What surprised me the most though, was all the dresses from Canadian couturier, Arnold Scaasi, a few from Dior and a wrap-dress from Diane von Furstenberg.
Next to the Leitmotifs, it was very interesting to study the design/cuts and bold colours of those.

On top, the exhibition is also displaying hundreds of neckties. Take a look at it before OCTOBER 25, 2015.

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QUEBEC FASHION

There is always something going on at The Musée du costume et du textile du Québec, in short MCTQ. Maybe you remember my post from september last year about knitting.

Some exhibitions that I would like to take a look at, if I was there. The first one has been on display for a while, but continues to run until April 18 this year :

"CHIC & CHOC presents sixty garments and accessories chosen for their scintillating beads and sequins, from a Roaring Twenties flapper dress to a stunning Céline Dion concert gown created by Annie Horth.

This journey through the 20th century is a chance to admire glittering pieces by well-known designers, including Quebec fashion stars like Clairette, Lily Simon and Raoul-Jean Fouré. Guest designers Ariane Carle and Rush Couture will both honour us with an exceptional new piece, including one created for the exhibition.

While shining a light on the CHIC, the exhibition includes some wonderful surprises – CHOC´s." 

-And the other Exhibition just opened yesterday.

Remember also to take a look at their hidden reserves here.

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DE LA BELLE ÉPOQUE AU PRET-Á-PORTER - REVISITED

When I visited the Musee du Costume et du Textile Quebec in Montreal earlier last month, they had reinstalled the Exhibition DE LA BELLE ÉPOQUE AU PRET-Á-PORTER, that I saw a few years back at the Grand Bibliothéque. It was a nice surprise!

 Photos kindly borrowed from the  MCTQs website. 

Attention please! - just a reminder of my GIVE-AWAY. Still one week to go.

MORE BALENCIAGA INSPIRATIONS

A few years back I did  a post on inspirations from the great master of Couture, Cristobal Balenciaga 1895-1972.
But never managed to follow up on it, untill now. So here is a few more, that still have presence today.

Except these two dresses, by his protegé, Hubert de Givenchy

 

This selection of dresses are so pure and simple, but the flounces and the asymetric cuts - some of Balenciaga´s characteristics - still makes them very effectful and modern today.

No wonder why Hubert de Givenchy, Oscar de La Renta, Andre Courreges, Emanuel Ungaro and so many designers of today still gets inspired by his designs.

Maybe because he was very thorough in his high standards of workmanship. He liked to experiment and create. He was one of the only ones who actually could design, cut and execute his own dresses.

You clearly see his design philosophy in everything he did.

YSL - The movie

Are you as big a fan of Yves Saint Laurent as me? There will be something to look forward to.
Several new films are coming up soon about one of my all-time favorite designers. The film premieres the 3. april here in Denmark.

The film is about his first years, 1954-57, in the fashion-house of  Dior, that takes the young 21 year old talent in, after he won a category in The International Wool Secreteriate Design competition.

The year he meets his destiny in shape of Pierre Bergé, that becomes his partner in business and life.

In the past, I have written a few posts about Yves Saint Laurent here and here, if you want to know more. Otherwise take a look at this trailer. Enjoy!

FASHION BOOKS

Inspiration is everywhere. You can always get inspired, learn new things and update your experience, if you are aware.
That´s why I just had to add these two fashion books to my collection, when I was browsing the local bookstore on my way through the City.
 

 

 

Photos: John Frantsen

CURRENT & UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS

Party dress from Boué Soeurs in Paris, ca. 1923-25. Photo: Ole Woldbye

-Abroad, nationally and locally. If you want to be updated, visit dragt.dk´s website.
The Costume Unit of Danish Museums aka "De Danske museers Dragtpulje" is a network of museums containing Costumes in Denmark.
It is very interesting if you are into history of costume and would like to know what is going on. Unfortunately it is only in danish.

Among the international exhibitions is the new V&A exhibit, "Club to catwalk", that shows how much influence the club scene had on fashion in the 80´ies. I remember it vividly, because I bought most of the magazine´s like The Face, Blitz and i-D back then. I might have a few left. . . or at least some front pages, that I will show later on.

This exhibition is most certainly an indicator for, that we will see more 80`ies influence on the coming collections from the designers of today.