CFDA - ONE WAY INTO FASHION!

-But not the only one. There are other ways. -That was my imediate reaction, after watching the mini-series The Fashion Fund on Netflix.

I couldn't believe my own ears, when they claimed: - "If you haven't got a fashion show, you're not serious/ -or the real deal".
Come on! - To me that statement sounded very limited and close minded. There is always a way!

It may come as a surprise, but not everyone wants to become a big name or global brand, but would be perfectly happy doing their thing and make a decent living out of that.

You see, being independent and make a good living, are actually quite satisfactory for more people, than you think.
Unfortunately the big names are getting all the attention. but if you take a closer look, there is a lot of creativity going on, on different levels.

Instead of taking hope/dreams away from people, even before they start, a more diverse fashion-program with different levels, where you can choose to go ahead or not, would be a better way of doing this, I think. -And it may even attract more interest.

-Any thoughts ?

FASHION CRITICS

Modified picture from The Independent/Getty Images

-After looking at some of this seasons fashion shows, like Celine and Louis Vuitton, I just wonder. Where are the fashion critics of today? -And are they still relevant?

I think today's so called fashion critics are too consensual and not particularly critical, with a few exceptions. They seem only to be there to promote fashion. I guess they are afraid of loosing their privileges; like invitations and front row seats ?

For me, a real fashion critic should have a passion for fashion and design, some kind of qualifications or at least some knowledge about fashion design, savoir faire and a sense of color and materials.

They should be able to analyze and to put a collection into context, culturally and historically.

A fashion critic should be honest, independent, selective and not afraid of speaking his/her mind.

That is why we need independent papers and television channels to take this more serious. Especially today, where almost every critical comment on social media just gets deleted.

Fashion critics like Robin Givhan, Cathy Horyn and Vanessa Friedman are actually there to make sense of it all.

I prefer their qualified opinion rather than some so called random social media influencers. What about you? What do you think?

If you would like a different perspective, take a look at The Fashion Law.

AUTHENTICITY

In this competitive and fast paced world of fashion we are living in, there are alternatives to getting dressed and stand out.

The solution is of course to slow down and take your time together with a dressmaker/designer to have your clothes designed and custom made, without compromising quality and Savoir-faire.

It is not a cheap solution, but more sustainable and the clothes will last longer.

 
UPDATE! This website is closed, but you can still reach me via Contact in the Menu.

DANISH FASHION / NOW - A REVIEW

-An exhibition, I was looking forward to see, just opened at BRANDTS yesterday. Sorry to say, it actually turned out to be quite disappointing. . .

First of all, my good friend, Tinah and I, was really surprised to see the big crowd - people you normally don´t see or notice, that was attending this opening. Where were they coming from ?

I guess it was partly because of the royal dresses and the celebrity-style that was on display. -And because an exhibition like that, doesn´t come to town often.

The Curators selection of celebrity- and royal dresses was very conventional though, as well as the way it was presented. Of course there were nice dresses, but no surprises and no real vision.

Especially the more commercial part of the display with contemporary retail-designers was hided/ covered up in different printed/transparent textile "walls"/compartments. Because the Curators chose to let one of the known fashion designers stage the display. And again -  poorly selection of clothes for the most part, but with a few exceptions.
Some of the Brands even had staff there to tell people that it was their latest collection and it was available in stores now.

Note! - we were surprised to see how disrespectful some people were touching all the clothes. But maybe they are not used to go on exhibitions. . .

What I missed also, was the lack of information: what was special about each brand and putting the clothes into a context of today.

For that I had to look into the exhibition catalouge, where I found one interesting feature from Maria Mackinney-Valentin. Obviously she knows what she is writing about - and is able to reflect and put fashion into context. She had some good points.

Another part of the exhibition displayed 10 different "fashion-personalities" and their relation to fashion - some of which were already shown in a tv-program with Chris Petersen, one of the Curators. A bit uninteresting, I have to admit.

The exposure of himself in the exhibition was also it bit overdone, for my taste.

All in all - We were not impressed and had to poor it all down with a drink afterwards.

But, go and see and judge for yourself.

- Sharing is caring -

FROM FASHION BACK TO COUTURE

In my eternal search and refinement of my real task - I decided to change the name of this blog to what I really like and love to do.
I realized that lately, when I wrote about fast fashion., that I am more into the opposite - "slow fashion", the Craftmanship, quality and style, that will last.

With the result that some of my regular readers lost the link to my blog. I´m sorry for that, but I didn't anticipate that would happen. . .

If you still want to follow my blog, you will have to link back again. Hope to see you all soon and welcome new readers at the same time.

- Sharing is caring -

LA MACHINE MODE

There is a new tendency emerging I think. . .

 Photo: Pascal Le Segretain, Getty Images

- A reaction to fast fashion.

Yesterday I heard that Jean-Paul Gaultier is closing his Prêt-à-Porter line, to focus on Haute couture instead. He apparently is tired of the fast pace of fashion. Creative ideas doesn´t come easy - to really create takes time.

Dries van Noten is another example - that holds on to produce only 2 collections a year, but never the less is very popular. If you want to learn about his inspirations, you can still make it, visiting Les Arts Décoratifs.

When I was in Montreal, I read about a young designer, Jeremy Laing, who launched his label in 2005. He said: - "I want people to collect my pieces. I don’t make disposable fashion. It should last".
But after experiences in fast fashion, he was so frustrated and decided to take a time-out to rethink his role in the fashion world.

The fast fashion industry can be very demanding and stressful, when you have to design and produce 6-8 collections a year.
The Industry says that it is the consumers who demands fast and cheap fashion - but personally I think they created that need to profit from it.

I wish that consumers would be more conscious when they shop for fashion. But the Industry and media also have a big responsibility. Maybe they should rethink, why they are in the fashion business.

Personally I think that quality, enduring values and sustainability will play a major role in the future. It is not enough just to profit from it. It has to make sense too.

You can read more about the subject in Huffington Post and Forbes.

I wrote another post about this issue a few years back. Read more about things like that under  thoughts.
I´m curious to known what you readers think? -if you have any opinion on the subject.

TOTALEMENT MAILLE !

By researching what was going on in the Montreal fashion exhibition scene at the moment, I fell over an intriguing Exhibition at Musee du Costume et du Textile Quebec at the Marché Bonsecours.

I went there today and was pleasently surprised by what I saw.

"Totalement maille! - takes a look back at Quebec fashion from the 70s showing more than 40 colourful and sensual garments by knit-designer and artist, Francine Vandelac.
Challenging past knitwear traditions, her surprising creations were aimed at a young, hip audience and boast a remarkably modern, sexy look."

It was amazing to discover how visionary and inventive knitting was done at that time. A great deal of the models looked very contemporary. The silhouettes, the yarn and colours - all very inspiring. I was very impressed and can only recommend it, even if you´re not into knitting.

Photos, John Frantsen

But hurry up, if you want to see it. It only runs until october 12.
Remember to visit the virtual exhibition "Fitting Fashions" and discover the hidden treasures of MCTQs Collection by clicking the link on top.

2014 - EMMY´S BEST DRESSED

As you probably know by now, I love colors. So, never mind trends. It´s about standing out in the crowd.
In my opinion, the best dressed at the 2014 Emmy´s, that took place August 25, at the Nokia Teatre, L.A.,  looked like this. . .

Allison Janney gets big points for choosing this outstanding, very elegant draped violet number by Nicolas Jerbran. PhotoCredit: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images.

Laura Prepon´s daring choice in this emerald green and turquoise number by Gustavo Cadile was also nice. PhotoCredit: Jordan

Giuliana Rancic also looked quite nice i her Gustavo Cadile dress. PhotoCredit: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images

 

Octavia Spencer looked georgeous in this draped chiffon dress by Tadashi Shoji. PhotoCredit: 2014 Jason Merritt, Getty Images

Kaley Cuoco from Big bang theory also looked very stylish and modern in this red and pink organdy/tulle- and applique dress by Monique Lhuillier. PhotoCredit: Strauss Invision AP.

January Jones looked dressed for the occasion in this asymetric ballgown from Prabal Gurung. PhotoCredit: Jason Merritt, Getty Images.

Mark-Ruffalo with Sunrise Coigney, who looked effortless elegant in this bright green asymetric draped dress by. . . PhotoCredit: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images

Samira Wiley in a simple, classic, but elegant bright yellow dress by Christian Siriano, looked nice and refreshing. PhotoCredit: Evan Agostin, Invision for the Television Campany AP Images

Who was your favorite ?

MORE BALENCIAGA INSPIRATIONS

A few years back I did  a post on inspirations from the great master of Couture, Cristobal Balenciaga 1895-1972.
But never managed to follow up on it, untill now. So here is a few more, that still have presence today.

Except these two dresses, by his protegé, Hubert de Givenchy

 

This selection of dresses are so pure and simple, but the flounces and the asymetric cuts - some of Balenciaga´s characteristics - still makes them very effectful and modern today.

No wonder why Hubert de Givenchy, Oscar de La Renta, Andre Courreges, Emanuel Ungaro and so many designers of today still gets inspired by his designs.

Maybe because he was very thorough in his high standards of workmanship. He liked to experiment and create. He was one of the only ones who actually could design, cut and execute his own dresses.

You clearly see his design philosophy in everything he did.

ONCE UPON A TIME. . .

Model: Trine, Photo: Karen Relster

-There was a small shop, situated in Overgade, Odense, Denmark. The shop was named, John Frantsen Couture.

There you could have all your dreams, regarding dressing for every occasion, fulfilled.
As owner and designer, I created made to measure and fulfilled most wishes. From that time, I have many good memories and nice experiences with various clients.

Since then, years went by, where I subsequently changed business name a few times, due to different circumstances. 

This might have passed unnoticed, but nevertheless I continued my business from my own private home.

Even though it´s a rarity these days, I am still holding on to this metier, because I am very passionate about it.

The Atelier, where I am fulfilling the wishes of every individual customer, conscious of style and quality, still exists to this day.

For more info, take a look at the Services at the top-menu or explore the Galleries.

Old customers are very welcome to share their experiences here on my blog. -In what ever language they prefer  ;o)

MYTHOS CHANEL & LAGERFELDS MODELS

We just came back from a few, but wonderful sunny days in Hamborg. And to my big surprise, there actually were a couple of exhibitions, that I was eager to see.

That is above mentioned: Mythos Chanel  at Museum fur Kunst und Gewerbe. In the description of the exhibition it says :
"She was very selfconscious, independent and businessminded - Coco Chanel was much more than just a fahion Icon.
She revulotioned the female fashion in the beginning of the 20. century, by making it more usable and comfortable.
She raised  "the little black dress" and invented the suit, that since has carried her name. With great outlook, she already launched her own perfume in the 20´ies and completed her brand Chanel with additional fashion accessoires.
The exhibition displayes on top of 70 original creations, many examples by Karl Lagerfeld, that since1983 have kept the rich in tradition fashionhouse Chanel, up to date." 

 Photo: Daniel Clément

Very fascinating exhibition, that only can be recommended. Especially because you actually could get close enough to the clothes, to see how they were made. The exhibition runs until the 18. of may 2014.

We bought a "combiticket", that also gave us access to Hamborg Kunsthalle, where they by "coincidence" displayed an exhibition, called Feuerbachs Musen - Lagerfelds Models.

Here was a comparation between artist Anselm Feuerbach (1829-80) and Karl Lagerfeld searching to actualize an eternal beauty, based in the Antique ideal.
The overall theme of the exhibition was the Cult of beauty, that makes the model to an Icon. This exhibition runs until the 15. of june 2014.

  Photos: SIK-ISEA (P. Hitz) og Karl Lagerfeld, Moderne Mythologie, 2013, 

(Ausschnitt), © 2013 Karl Lagerfeld

Very interesting, if you are interested in those problems. But also if you´re interested in seeing how a  multitalented Lagerfeld works with art. Check out older posts about Lagerfeld here and there.

YSL - The movie

Are you as big a fan of Yves Saint Laurent as me? There will be something to look forward to.
Several new films are coming up soon about one of my all-time favorite designers. The film premieres the 3. april here in Denmark.

The film is about his first years, 1954-57, in the fashion-house of  Dior, that takes the young 21 year old talent in, after he won a category in The International Wool Secreteriate Design competition.

The year he meets his destiny in shape of Pierre Bergé, that becomes his partner in business and life.

In the past, I have written a few posts about Yves Saint Laurent here and here, if you want to know more. Otherwise take a look at this trailer. Enjoy!

ADVANCED COLORBLOCKING

I have been absence for a while, due to some vacation and different other things. Meanwhile some inspiration, until further notice. . .

Some designers master color blocking - the combination of colors on an advanced level, that is so inspiring. Here are a few examples - old and new - that I found recently and really like.

Hubert de Givenchy

 Arnold Scaasi 1958

 Narziso Rodriquez 2013

COMMON INSPIRATION !

When it comes to inspiration, it´s always funny to see how designers pick up vibes from different places and make something that look alike. I guess it must be a common source we all draw from. . .

For example, I made this cocktail dress a few years ago. . .

-And now, look how Dressmaker, Jesper Høvring interpretated that same vibe in his latest collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Photo: Jens Nørgaard Larsen

BEST GOLDEN GLOBE DRESSES

Of course there were bad choices and bad fitting gowns, but I decided to stay positive.

In my opinion, these actresses stood out in their gowns at The 2014 Golden Globe Awards ceremony, that took place on Sunday, January 12, at The Beverly Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills, LA.

Here Sandra Bullock in a colorblocked Prabal Gurung gown. Very refreshing, elegant and contemporary. Photo: Jordan Strauss, Invision/AP.

Singer, Taylor Swift in a very nice gown from Carolina Herrera. Photos: Jordan Strauss, Invision/AP and Frederic J. Brown/AFP Getty Images.

Actress and filmmaker, Caitlin FitzGerald in an asymetric babyblue gown from Emilia Wickstead. Photo: Jordan Strauss, Invision/AP.   

TV personality, Maria Menounos wore an elegant gown from Max Azria with sheer cutouts and looked quite contemporary. Photo: Jeff Vespa/ WireImage.

Television, film- and stage actress, Edie Falco looked quite nice in a classic, elegant gown from Lanvin. But maybe a different colour would have stood more out on the red carpet. Photo: Jordan Strauss, Invision/AP.