COWL NECK LINES

Last year, I made a video to show you how to construct patterns for different cowl neck lines, front and back. I just forgot to post it here on my blog.

I decided to make a Cowl neck demonstration, because, there is so many different ways to do it.

Shimmering cocktail dress with a front cowl neck line. 

Cowl neck lines are mostly used in Bridal wear and occasional wear, but can easily be used in everyday wear as well. Depending on the shape, cut and what fabric you chose to use.

The cowl neck lines I am demonstrating in the video, are based on the basic Dress pattern, your Size Chart, with your Measurements and the Calculations, that I went through in my previous videos.

So, check out these Videos, where I go through the construction-process step-by-step and Download the Size Chart for free.

So, if you went through some of the basic patterns and you’re ready for a new challenge, follow along.

The cowl neck lines are more advanced than the basic patterns, because the cowl neck piece are cut on the bias. 

Start by hold a measuring tape up against your body, where you want the Cowl neck line to be.

Decide how deep or high your cowl is going to be and adjust the front/back shoulder width accordingly, depending on where the cowl is.

From the patterns I am going through, there is endless possibilities to create whatever you want. Close-, high-, low-, and deep cowl neck lines. 

I've made a few cowl neck dresses through the years. Here is another example from a previous post.

You will get the best result, by using either a soft or heavy fabric, that falls nicely. Before you buy the fabric, hold it on the bias to see how it falls/behaves.

I hope you found this explanation useful. Let me know what you think and if you have any problems, get in touch. I will get back to you as soon as possible. 

THE BLACK BALLGOWN

This is the finished black Ballgown, I wrote about in a previous Blogpost. 

The dress is made out of the Moschino fabric left-over, that I used for a long Cowl neck dress for a client some years ago with several layers of tulle. It is now fully lined with sturdy black cotton satin, for comfort and ready to go.

The size of this corset dress is a 40, which equals a 10 in Nord american sizes.

The basis for the top was the dress pattern with some adjustments. I wanted to create something different and choose to keep the same length all around, like I am showing in this previous video.

 

Since the fabric was quite loosely woven, I doubled it with an extra layer of reinforced cotton, that was basted on and overlocked, before sewing all the pieces together and I added an invisible zipper.

 

Because of the asymmetrical hip hem I had to create a special pattern for the skirt, like I demonstrated in this video. 

I added several layers of black tulle in a full circle and gathered a shorter one as a transition from the top. 

 

For the lining, I created a second top of cotton satin and reinforced the upper edge, before I added the skirt. 

I sewed the dress and the lining together at the upper seam edge, with two small ribbon loops for the neck strap in between, before turning it inside out and pressing it.

 

I decided to add an adjustable neck strap to the top as a design feature and to hold the dress in place.   

 

Feel free to comment or ask, if you have any questions and I will get back to you as soon as possible. In my coming videos I am open for your suggestions to relevant subjects.

 

Get it touch, if you're interested in this One-of-a-kind Ballgown. 

 

Stay tuned and subscribe to my blog and channel for updates and coming projects.

FASHION FAUX PAS

As an experienced designer and pattern-maker with a keen eye, I sometimes see celebrities and the likes wearing badly fitted clothes.

Designers are often very eager to gift or loan out their dresses and outfits. because of the attention and free exposure they get from the media.

But these dresses and outfits are rarely Made-to-measure for the person, but usually just standard sizes, that designers tried to fit to the sizes of celebrities  - and it often shows.

Photograph by Horst P. Horst, Mainbocher corset, Paris 1939

So, for example, I often see corsets, where the cups are to small and strapless dresses that are either too tight or to loose around the bust. -Or the bust height is too short, which flattens and pushes down the bust and make it look less flattering.

Photograph by Irving Penn, Vogue, October 1994

 

Either the celebrities don't know, that a perfect fit is possible or they want to save money or they can't afford Made-to-measure. So, of course they have to compromise.

Another example I've noticed, is long slits in full skirts. There is really no need for that, unless you want to look cheap, showing of your legs. Slits usually have a practical function in pencil-skirts and long narrow skirts, so that you actually are able to walk.

Last, but not least, I also noticed full skirts, that are far too long in the front. They might look nice, when the wearer is standing still. But unless the wearer grab and lift up the skirt with both hands, they will not be able to walk, but most likely stumble. That is definitely impractical and makes no sense to me.

Do you agree or disagree? Let me know what you think in the comments below.  

I'm sure, there are even more Fashion Faux pas out there, but often it is just a matter of taste.  

Unfortunately, I didn't find nice photos of these three very obvious examples. Nevertheless, I hope my description of the Fashion Faux pas gave you an idea.

Until next time. 

PRESENTATION LEAFLETS

Going through some of my stuff recently, I found these two old Presentation leaflets of mine. Here is the story behind them. 

The first one, I conceptualized and designed myself. It includes my logo and two pictures of models, wearing my designs. It has an estimated price list and a short description of who I am and what I offer. The format is A4, printed on each side and folded horizontally twice.

 

 

 

The second one is made by a professional Graphic designer, that I knew through my sister. 

I provided the photos, description and some instructions on how I would like it to look. 

I always preferred clean and simple.

She came up with this nice design, that I really liked. Again, the format is A4, printed on each side and folded once vertically.

Back and front

 

Inside

Idea and Lay-out Design: Marianne Holmegaard

These leaflets were mainly used for client inqueries, exhibitions and fashion events.

By the way, I also posted about another similar project years ago. The inspiration and design for a special Business card in this post. Check it out and let me know what you think in the comments below.

WAISTCOAT PATTERNS

I wanted to write a little bit about waistcoats in this post, since that is the subject of my latest YouTube videos.

The Waistcoat/Vest is a very versatile piece of garment. It can be used in many different ways, depending of the occasion and the choice of fabric. 

For example in the summer, without anything else like a T-shirt. Or you can use it more informally with just a T-shirt or shirt under.

Or more formally, as part of a three-piece pant- or skirt suit of course. You can create the Waistcoat in different styles, with or without lapel and collar, and eventually add a back-strap for adjustment.

 

-And to illustrate I tried to find some examples of the Waistcoats, that I have made during the years. But it was before the Internet took off and I started to document what I make.

But at least I found a picture of one, that I made many years ago. The same summer as I made a Gala dress for my cousin.

As you can see, this waistcoat was a very casual one. It was made of Ikat-wowen fabric, that a good friend from Copenhagen purchased in Burma. 

Ikat fabric is a dying technique used to create a distinct style of textile patterns and it is done by resist dying sections of the yarns prior to the weaving. In Ikat the resist is created by binding individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a tight wrapping, applied in the desired pattern. 

My cousin Lotte and I about 1999 - 2000.