DANISH FASHION / NOW - A REVIEW

-An exhibition, I was looking forward to see, just opened at BRANDTS yesterday. Sorry to say, it actually turned out to be quite disappointing. . .

First of all, my good friend, Tinah and I, was really surprised to see the big crowd - people you normally don´t see or notice, that was attending this opening. Where were they coming from ?

I guess it was partly because of the royal dresses and the celebrity-style that was on display. -And because an exhibition like that, doesn´t come to town often.

The Curators selection of celebrity- and royal dresses was very conventional though, as well as the way it was presented. Of course there were nice dresses, but no surprises and no real vision.

Especially the more commercial part of the display with contemporary retail-designers was hided/ covered up in different printed/transparent textile "walls"/compartments. Because the Curators chose to let one of the known fashion designers stage the display. And again -  poorly selection of clothes for the most part, but with a few exceptions.
Some of the Brands even had staff there to tell people that it was their latest collection and it was available in stores now.

Note! - we were surprised to see how disrespectful some people were touching all the clothes. But maybe they are not used to go on exhibitions. . .

What I missed also, was the lack of information: what was special about each brand and putting the clothes into a context of today.

For that I had to look into the exhibition catalouge, where I found one interesting feature from Maria Mackinney-Valentin. Obviously she knows what she is writing about - and is able to reflect and put fashion into context. She had some good points.

Another part of the exhibition displayed 10 different "fashion-personalities" and their relation to fashion - some of which were already shown in a tv-program with Chris Petersen, one of the Curators. A bit uninteresting, I have to admit.

The exposure of himself in the exhibition was also it bit overdone, for my taste.

All in all - We were not impressed and had to poor it all down with a drink afterwards.

But, go and see and judge for yourself.

- Sharing is caring -

UPCOMING EVENT - SALE !

As I wrote some time ago, big changes are coming.
But before, I need to sell as much as possible off from my racks. Tons of clothes I have produced during the years.

 Photo Art by John Frantsen

My dear friend, Rikke and I are therefor planning an Event with champagne and canapées at Cadenheads Whisky and Lifestyle shop here in Odense, late november.

You can expect very good offers and big discounts on unique tops, skirts and corsets, cocktail- and gala dresses.

There is plenty of preparations to do. . . Like pricing the items with size and a short description on individual tags. Not to talk about press release, flyers etc.

-Something to look forward for. Spread the word and stay tuned for news anytime now!

- Sharing is caring -

LA MACHINE MODE

There is a new tendency emerging I think. . .

 Photo: Pascal Le Segretain, Getty Images

- A reaction to fast fashion.

Yesterday I heard that Jean-Paul Gaultier is closing his Prêt-à-Porter line, to focus on Haute couture instead. He apparently is tired of the fast pace of fashion. Creative ideas doesn´t come easy - to really create takes time.

Dries van Noten is another example - that holds on to produce only 2 collections a year, but never the less is very popular. If you want to learn about his inspirations, you can still make it, visiting Les Arts Décoratifs.

When I was in Montreal, I read about a young designer, Jeremy Laing, who launched his label in 2005. He said: - "I want people to collect my pieces. I don’t make disposable fashion. It should last".
But after experiences in fast fashion, he was so frustrated and decided to take a time-out to rethink his role in the fashion world.

The fast fashion industry can be very demanding and stressful, when you have to design and produce 6-8 collections a year.
The Industry says that it is the consumers who demands fast and cheap fashion - but personally I think they created that need to profit from it.

I wish that consumers would be more conscious when they shop for fashion. But the Industry and media also have a big responsibility. Maybe they should rethink, why they are in the fashion business.

Personally I think that quality, enduring values and sustainability will play a major role in the future. It is not enough just to profit from it. It has to make sense too.

You can read more about the subject in Huffington Post and Forbes.

I wrote another post about this issue a few years back. Read more about things like that under  thoughts.
I´m curious to known what you readers think? -if you have any opinion on the subject.

FOR THE RIGHT REASON

Juliana Moore in Cannes 2013, Photo: Pool

When you look at my last post about The Golden Globes, it is a fascinating world. . . sort of a dream-world really. -And a very seductive one.
It is very easy to get captured like that and by all the things that is going on in the fashion world; you want to be part of it and start to aspire for more. It´s only natural I think, because everybody wants to succeed.

It all made me think of, what it takes to get there. . . and is it something worth striving for at all. I mean, we can´t be famous actors or designers all of us.

According to all the Media and "Reality"-shows these days, it seems like, especially young people think they have to live through the Media to be someone or something. It´s a bit scary.

I have to say - of course it is possible to be happy and content, without being famous. We just need to dream to keep our hopes up, but at the same time be realistic and think about our potential and strenght.
That might show us the right way. As long as you don´t forget what got you started and hold on to that. Sooner or later you will succeed.

Actually I just need to look at my self. . .
-Initially it began, when I was looking for clothes back then. Since I wasn't  able to find anything that I liked, I began to create my own. I made quite a few experiments, finding satisfaction in this process, and finally decided to study and make a career out of it.

Why and what made you go into fashion ? Share your experience and have a great day out there.

I wrote about what I think it takes in a previous post.Take a closer look at the Labels, if you like posts like this.

 

Actress Zhang Yugi in Cannes 2013, Photo: Loic Venance

SOMETHING IS GOING ON !

 -A teaser by "En Duo", our new concept.

Just to reassure you all, I´m still here. . .  and something is going on.

We are working on some new autumn/winter items and will soon launch our new blog/showroom, where you eventually will be able to purchase some of them. . .

When it´s up, we will offer you all the chance to win an item of your own choice, if you pay us a visit and leave a comment. So stay tuned!

Notice! The new blog is only in danish, so far.

LOCATION - STILL NOT FOUND !

PhotoArt by John Frantsen 2013

We were already excited about our newly found location, but things took another turn again. We changed our minds after we had read the Contract.

Even though the location was perfect - a nice sized shop with a workshop and a big window display, the conditions of the rent and terms, were not in our favor. 

So we decided to change our focus and will now concentrate on our production and build up a new blog with all that we have to offer. So stay tuned, if you are up for special offers in the future.

LACROIX IS BACK - for now!

Christian Lacroix is making a comeback as the first Couturier of The House of Schiaparelli. That is great news. 

Christian Lacroix founded his Couture House in 1987. But was unfortunately forced to close it down back in 2009. I was a big fan back then. He was very bold, refreshing and inspiring.

Elsa Sciaparelli was a very influential designer in the fashion world of her time. She was the first one to use things like zippers and newspaper prints in clothes.

"We want to continue the fact that she was always working with artists," says Farida Khelfa, the Ambassador of Schiaparelli. This explains the merge of Schiaparelli and Christian LaCroix, a master of Couture. 

Lacroix for Schiaparelli Couture Fall 2013 - A one-off Collection

Read my previous post about Schiaparelli here.

WORN THROUGH - CLOSE RUNNER-UP !

Sketch by John Frantsen

Worn Through book Give-away contest winners!

After reviewing the impresssive entries of your costume and fashion sketches, it is with great pleasure that I congratulate the winner of Worn Through´s book give-away contest: Rachel Pollock. Your prize is a review copy of Deborah Nadoolman Landis´latest book, Hollywood Sketchbook: A Century of Costume Illustration.

A very close runner-up is John Frantsen, who will receive a collection of costume design sketch greeting cards.

Your illustrations were wonderful, you should be very proud. Please reply to this email with your respective addresses so I can mail you your well-deserved prizes within the next week.

Thank you for participating in the Worn Through community, and best of luck with your future fashion endeavors!

Tove
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tove Hermanson, Fashion Culturalist

Senior Contributor & Book Reviews Editor | Worn Through | apparel from an academic perspective.
Contributor, Style Section | Huffington Post.
Editor & Contributor | Thread for Thought | How fashion intersects politics, economics, gender, race & pop culture.
Inspiration boards on Pinterest.

"Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society."
Mark Twain

WEARABILITY

  Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton Spring 2013

Have you ever wondered why you rarely see anyone in the clothes from the big fashion-houses Ready-to-wear collections.

After taking a look at the latest collections at style.com, I have been thinking about today's fashion and have noticed the big contradiction between the showpieces and what people actually wear.
When you look at how people dress in the streets on a daily basis, it is very basic, more practical and loose fitted outfits than on the catwalks.

That's because the big fashion-houses mainly are using their Haute Couture Collections to brand their name and get some attention from the media, to sell perfumes and accessories.

But, the collections were nevertheless quite inspiring. My friend, Rikke and I were amazed to see that our approach were quite similar to what is going on. I especially liked Gucci.

The High Street Brands gets inspiration from these shows to do more affordable clothes for the mass-marked.

But we are going to challenge that, to make affordable and wearable quality design, to keep and wear more than one season! Couldn´t that be nice?

Photos from V magazine.com and Madame.lefigaro.fr

NINA ROBENHAGEN

I didn´t attend  last weeks Fashionweek in Copenhagen, but from what I have seen on the net, one of my favourite collections was from debutant Nina Robenhagen.

She showed a small, exclusive collection in nice colors and fabrics. Take a look of  her SS 2012  Collection here and see the fashionshow live here.

It really shows that she also has a background as a tailor. The collection looked cohesive, simple, elegant, refined and structured. We don´t see that very often.

I didn´t look at all the collections, but i also liked the contemporary collection of Benedikte Utzon and the sophisticated collection of Dennis Lyngsø. Look them up and see for yourself.

2018 Update! It seems her collection was a one-off.

FLOWER FESTIVAL FASHION

I just realized that I forgot to post about this fun fashion event from 2001. Through friends and connections, I was asked if I wanted to participate in this yearly event in Odense, Denmark.

The whole city was decorated with a variety of flower arrangements through a short period of time.

I was happy to oblige, since exposure is everything, when you are a small one-man business. 

Luckily I already had some of the dresses ready. Nevertheless, it took a few months to prepare, design and execute the dresses I wanted to show. All of them made to measure for three models that was modelling them. All the dresses had some kind of floral motif in the design.

 Here is some of the dresses that was shown.

Summer 2001' Lottrups Gaard, Odense

DEBBIE REYNOLDS - THE AUCTION

The legendary actress and entertainer, Debbie Reynolds extensive Collection of Iconic Hollywood costumes is going to be auctioned on June 18, 2011 at The Paley Center for Media, 465 North Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210.

This may be a once in a lifetime opportunity to purchase some of the costumes from Iconic Hollywood movies.
Debbie Reynolds first tried to find an institution or great collectors to keep the collection together, but sadly enough she didn´t succeed. So now you have the chance to bit on your favorite piece.

"My lifetime dream has been to assemble and preserve the history of the Hollywood film industry. Hollywood has been an enormous part of my life as I know it has been for countless fans all over the world.
This collection represents a lifetime of collecting Hollywood artifacts and this is a rare opportunity to own a piece of Hollywood History for those who love the movies as much as I do.
For the first time in nearly five decades, these iconic pieces will be made available to the public through a series of auctions presented by Profiles in History beginning in June 2011."

Debbie Reynolds

A GREAT COLLECTOR

Photo credit: Chester Higgins Jr./The New York Times

-Of fashion is Hamish Bowles, Vogue´s European editor at large and one of the most respected authorities in the fashion world.

Like the Art-world, the Fashion-world certainly have some great collectors too.
Hamish Bowles started to collect as a young boy and has been collecting ever since, for more than 30 years.
He is educated at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. He began his career at Harpers and Queen magazine in 1984 and moved to Vogue in 1992.

His extensive collection of historic Haute couture-pieces and fashionably significant clothes are about 2000 and growing. It is so vast, that he keeps it in warehouses in New York, Paris and London.

Museum curators are calling him to contribute to special fashion exhibitions all over the world.
Recently he has contributed to The Alexander McQueen retrospective in New York and The Balenciaga and Spain-Exhibit at The de Young Museum in San Francisco, which he also curated.

This exhibition is an expanded version of the previous one at The Queen Sofia Spanish Institute in New York as I posted earlier this year.

Read a very interesting Narciso Rodriguez interview with the great collector here.

EXPRESS-COLLECTIONS!

-A phenomenon of our times. During some time I´ve noticed that fashion-companies often are looking for designers to do these express-collections 6-12 times a year.

I´m just wondering. Is it a need of or a demand from the customers? Is it to force fashion to change faster, to make more money? Is it because of competition ? -Or is it maybe just because they can?

Because, as I wrote in an earlier post about fashion-strategies, the risk is that when you expose or force new fashion on people all the time, they eventually get tired of it. -And the companies are kind of fading out their brands.

In my opinion there is not a lot of brands that stands apart these days and all the shops look-a-like. It´s hard to tell what they want and why we should buy their clothes at all. 

Like it is, I have the feeling that people don´t really care about brands, as long as the price is right.
Certainly it´s not very sustainable to produce that much. On top you see more and more designers burn out because of the pressure to constantly perform. 

The Fashion industry/Fashion brands really need to reflect and re-invent them selves. A new parameter could of course be good quality, a certain point of view and clear strategy that sets them apart.

So, who is benefiting from the pace? What is your opinion on this matter?

THE FASHION FUND WINNER 2010

As a follow-up to my former post from October 21, the winner of CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Design competition 2010 is now found.
You can see the first five episodes with the various challenges that the nominated designers should solve along the way here and the last one where they were showing their latest collections in Los Angeles here.

The winner was Billy Reid from Alabama. He loves classic American clothes and describes himself as a traditional American designer.

That is his starting point, that he by using different techniques, details and fabrics renews and makes unique.His style and concept reminds me very much of Ralph Lauren.
But check out his website here and judge for yourself. You can see the actual Award here and read more here.

FASHION DESIGN EXHIBITION

Time is getting closer fast and I´m about to finish up the different dresses. 

At the same time, there is a lot of practicalities that have to fall into place. But with good help, it will of course come out right. 

You are hereby invited.

Hope to see you there.

TV2FYN-REVIEW OF FASHIONSHOW

Read more about the Fashion Show that took place to support cancer-patients at TV2Fyn´s website.

You can still make your bit on the dress I created for this event, by going to the online auction at Lauritz and support the great cause. The pink dress is shown here in front together with vintage dresses from The Collection of Time / Tidens samling.

THE FINAL DRESS OF THE CHARITY FASHION SHOW

Here is the result of all my efforts, for the Breastcancer Campaign and good cause "Støt brysterne"/ "Support the Breasts". 

The dress is made out of 10 metre airy silk, 1 metre of dupion-silk and about 180 hand-sewn rhinestones. It took about 30 hours to finish the dress. 

It is auctioned at Lauritz during this week. Make your bit, if you have the courage to wear this "One-of-a-kind dress and support the good cause.

Model: Katrine Damgaard from Diva models 

Photos: Daniel Clément

The fantastic shoes of the model was a perfect match and were kindly lent from Bianco shoes in Odense. They can be yours for only 600,-

BREASTS, ART & FASHION SHOW

Here is a photo from the Charity Fashion Show, I made the final dress for.

GALA BALL

It´s time to polish your dancing-shoes. Because at long last you have the chance to show off your Ballgown.

The Ball takes place Saturday the 6. of march from 18.30-24.00 at the City Hall of Odense, Denmark.

The tickets are in danish currency, 695,- excl. fees and includes among other things a welcoming drink, a light meal and coffee. 

 

The earnings will benefit the H.C. Andersens Childrens Hospital. Get your tickets at Danbillet.

If you miss the Dress, it can be ordered right here.