CFDA - ONE WAY INTO FASHION!

-But not the only one. There are other ways. -That was my imediate reaction, after watching the mini-series The Fashion Fund on Netflix.

I couldn't believe my own ears, when they claimed: - "If you haven't got a fashion show, you're not serious/ -or the real deal".
Come on! - To me that statement sounded very limited and close minded. There is always a way!

It may come as a surprise, but not everyone wants to become a big name or global brand, but would be perfectly happy doing their thing and make a decent living out of that.

You see, being independent and make a good living, are actually quite satisfactory for more people, than you think.
Unfortunately the big names are getting all the attention. but if you take a closer look, there is a lot of creativity going on, on different levels.

Instead of taking hope/dreams away from people, even before they start, a more diverse fashion-program with different levels, where you can choose to go ahead or not, would be a better way of doing this, I think. -And it may even attract more interest.

-Any thoughts ?

FASHION CRITICS

Modified picture from The Independent/Getty Images

-After looking at some of this seasons fashion shows, like Celine and Louis Vuitton, I just wonder. Where are the fashion critics of today? -And are they still relevant?

I think today's so called fashion critics are too consensual and not particularly critical, with a few exceptions. They seem only to be there to promote fashion. I guess they are afraid of loosing their privileges; like invitations and front row seats ?

For me, a real fashion critic should have a passion for fashion and design, some kind of qualifications or at least some knowledge about fashion design, savoir faire and a sense of color and materials.

They should be able to analyze and to put a collection into context, culturally and historically.

A fashion critic should be honest, independent, selective and not afraid of speaking his/her mind.

That is why we need independent papers and television channels to take this more serious. Especially today, where almost every critical comment on social media just gets deleted.

Fashion critics like Robin Givhan, Cathy Horyn and Vanessa Friedman are actually there to make sense of it all.

I prefer their qualified opinion rather than some so called random social media influencers. What about you? What do you think?

If you would like a different perspective, take a look at The Fashion Law.

CONTEMPORARY COLLECTIONS

Towards the end of 2012, The Fashion-house of Paco Rabanne (18 February 1934 – 3 February 2023 ) and Guy Laroche (16 July 1921 – 17 February 1989) seems to have been revitalized.

I were quite impressed by their Fall/Winter collections earlier this year - they looked very contemporary. Here a few pics to illustrate. . .

Paco Rabanne SS2012

That Manish Arora, the Indian Avant-garde designer, actually managed to reintroduce the Spanish  Fashion-house, Paco Rabanne also surprised me. . . Because his own line of clothes are very bold and flamboyant. See my previous post on him here.

The Paco Rabanne SS2012-collection reminded me more of Thierry Mugler updated, but his take on FW2012-13 was more like it. . . the Paco Rabanne spirit. Unfortunately he was only assigned for one year.

Photos from: Sight-management.com,
RightandAboveit.tumblr.com and GoRunway.com

But let´s see, if their new Artistic Director, Lydia Maurer can keep up. The SS2013-collection was an attempt, but not very convincing.

Marcel Marongiu, who was appointed for Guy Laroche in 2007, challenged himself by doing something unexpected for the Fall/Winter 2012 Collection, using a strict colourpalette and mixing new materials, so it ended up in a very nice and cohesive collection.

Photos from : Fashionbombdayli.com, Elle.es
and Nowfashion.com

WEARABILITY

  Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton Spring 2013

Have you ever wondered why you rarely see anyone in the clothes from the big fashion-houses Ready-to-wear collections.

After taking a look at the latest collections at style.com, I have been thinking about today's fashion and have noticed the big contradiction between the showpieces and what people actually wear.
When you look at how people dress in the streets on a daily basis, it is very basic, more practical and loose fitted outfits than on the catwalks.

That's because the big fashion-houses mainly are using their Haute Couture Collections to brand their name and get some attention from the media, to sell perfumes and accessories.

But, the collections were nevertheless quite inspiring. My friend, Rikke and I were amazed to see that our approach were quite similar to what is going on. I especially liked Gucci.

The High Street Brands gets inspiration from these shows to do more affordable clothes for the mass-marked.

But we are going to challenge that, to make affordable and wearable quality design, to keep and wear more than one season! Couldn´t that be nice?

Photos from V magazine.com and Madame.lefigaro.fr

THE INDIAN TREND

"Now it’s all about India"

- Karl Lagerfelt proclaimed, when he launched his Metier d’Art collection for Chanel last year.

You can say the same about ARKEN - The Museum of Modern Art south of Copenhagen. Because this fall the museum has it´s first fashion exhibition ever, INDIA : ART NOW. It runs until 13 january 2013.

The exhibition displayes creations by seven of the most prominent young Indian designers: Manish Arora, Morphe by Amit Aggarwal, Little Shilpa, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Prashant Verma, Varun Sardana and 11.11 by Cell DSGN.

Photo: Anders Sune Berg/Arken

Especially Manish Aurora is quite known. He is regarded by many as "the John Galliano of India", says Hilary Alexander, The Daily Telegraph 2007.

He is known for a rich palette of psychedelic colours and kitsch motifs in garments that combine traditional Indian crafts like embroidery, appliqué and beading with Western silhouettes. He makes clothes for the adventures woman with a very strong individuality.

The Indian trend is all over at the moment.
Even the latest collections from American designers Marchesa and Vera Wang are clearly inspired by India.



NINA ROBENHAGEN

I didn´t attend  last weeks Fashionweek in Copenhagen, but from what I have seen on the net, one of my favourite collections was from debutant Nina Robenhagen.

She showed a small, exclusive collection in nice colors and fabrics. Take a look of  her SS 2012  Collection here and see the fashionshow live here.

It really shows that she also has a background as a tailor. The collection looked cohesive, simple, elegant, refined and structured. We don´t see that very often.

I didn´t look at all the collections, but i also liked the contemporary collection of Benedikte Utzon and the sophisticated collection of Dennis Lyngsø. Look them up and see for yourself.

2018 Update! It seems her collection was a one-off.

BACK TO THE CORE OF HAUTE COUTURE

-with Azzedine Alaïa, who just showed his first much anticipated Haute Couture show in eight years.

Alaia is a couturier/designer who doesn´t need to reinvent the big wheel every season, but edit and refine his clothes to perfection.

He sets his own agenda. He takes his time and doesn´t show before he is ready and have something to show. As a Couturier, Alaïa is in the same leaque as Madame Gres and Balenciaga.

I have to say, that I really like this approach to his metier. That´s how the world of Haute Couture  should be. I wouldn´t mind working for him.

Azzedine Alaia dressing Grace Jones

Grace Jones as Mayday in A View to a Kill, 1985

FLOWER FESTIVAL FASHION

I just realized that I forgot to post about this fun fashion event from 2001. Through friends and connections, I was asked if I wanted to participate in this yearly event in Odense, Denmark.

The whole city was decorated with a variety of flower arrangements through a short period of time.

I was happy to oblige, since exposure is everything, when you are a small one-man business. 

Luckily I already had some of the dresses ready. Nevertheless, it took a few months to prepare, design and execute the dresses I wanted to show. All of them made to measure for three models that was modelling them. All the dresses had some kind of floral motif in the design.

 Here is some of the dresses that was shown.

Summer 2001' Lottrups Gaard, Odense

CATWALKING

We were in Horsens this past weekend. By coincidence they were about to challenge The World's Greatest Catwalk at Copenhagen Fashion Week 2010, that took place recently during the last Fashion Week. That one was as you maybe heard 1,6 km long. But the Event in Copenhagen was met by some criticism, as you can see here.

The Catwalk Horsens ended up beeing 1,8 km all in all. Here every shop of the City contributed with things of everybody's taste. Then I haven´t said to much.

Photos: John Frantsen

TV2FYN-REVIEW OF FASHIONSHOW

Read more about the Fashion Show that took place to support cancer-patients at TV2Fyn´s website.

You can still make your bit on the dress I created for this event, by going to the online auction at Lauritz and support the great cause. The pink dress is shown here in front together with vintage dresses from The Collection of Time / Tidens samling.

THE FINAL DRESS OF THE CHARITY FASHION SHOW

Here is the result of all my efforts, for the Breastcancer Campaign and good cause "Støt brysterne"/ "Support the Breasts". 

The dress is made out of 10 metre airy silk, 1 metre of dupion-silk and about 180 hand-sewn rhinestones. It took about 30 hours to finish the dress. 

It is auctioned at Lauritz during this week. Make your bit, if you have the courage to wear this "One-of-a-kind dress and support the good cause.

Model: Katrine Damgaard from Diva models 

Photos: Daniel Clément

The fantastic shoes of the model was a perfect match and were kindly lent from Bianco shoes in Odense. They can be yours for only 600,-

BREASTS, ART & FASHION SHOW

Here is a photo from the Charity Fashion Show, I made the final dress for.

FASHION SHOW ANNOUNCEMENT

YOU FOUND MY BLOG!

 

 Welcome into my Creative universe and my very first blogpost. I hope you will follow along.

 

From my Graduation exhibition 1999

At the moment I´m working on a Final-dress for the Fashion Show - Breast, Art and Fashion. An event for the benefit of  the "Fighting Cancers"-Campaign "Support the Breasts".

If you want to support this good cause, the Show is taking place the 29/10 at Grand Hotel in Odense, Denmark and tickets can be purchased via Danbillet. 

 

I hope to see you there.