ORLANDO

Speaking of Tilda Swinton in my previous post, i just remembered a costume-assignment i did at The College of  Arts and Crafts, on one of my favourite movies.
In the movie Orlando from 1993, based on Virgina Woolfs novel from 1928, Tilda Swinton playes a young nobleman, Orlando.

When Orlando were published, it created a sensation and caused quite a scandal in the bourgeoisie at that time, because of it´s gender/political message: that men and women should have equal rights.

The movie is a view on the last 400 years history of woman- and gender. It playes with the thought of an ideal society, where people are not slaves of their sex, but contains characteristics and qualities from both sexes.

The movie are maybe fictitious and fantastic in its content, but it is relatively true in its visual exposure of the styles and fashionepochs.

It is very suitable as an inspiration for costumes, because it is abundant and extravagant in it´s demon-stration of the styles of the different epochs.
From the story begins, in the times of baroque (1600-1700), the movie shows us abundance of heavy decorated rooms and garments, that underlines the standards and restrictions of the time - and opens The History of Costume - that we witness through the movie.

-In the beginning we are at the court of Elisabeth I, which Orlando is frequenting. The Queen has set her eyes on Orlando, because of his feminine boyishness and beautiful legs. She gives him the deed of the family mansion, on the condition that he never ages and keeps his glow of youth. -And an interesting journey begins.

-I won´t reveal more. The rest you will have to read or see for yourself. I highly recommend it.

A DIFFERENT APPROACH TO FASHION

Do you know the designer, Haider Ackermann? He was born in Columbia 1971, studied in Belgium and launched his first collection in 2001. He has his very own approach towards fashion and is known for his masterful draping skills and avantgarde aesthetic.

He finally got some well deserved attention, when he dressed British actress Tilda Swinton in 2009 and  2011 for the Cannes Filmfestival.

As the Fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, Suzy Menkes said at that time: 

"Tilda Swinton´s sensual elegance wiped the red-carpeted floor with the starlets in their strapless dresses and boned bodices. The Tilda offering was charisma without cleavage." - And I couldn´t agree more !

Take a look at some of his wonderful collections here.

No wonder why Haider Ackermann has been one of Karl Lagerfeld´s favorites at first to take over at Chanel. But recently he rather sees him as an Givenchy-man. Instead he´s suggesting Riccardo Tisci to take over.

Ackermann has also been mentioned as a possible contender to replace John Galliano at Dior. Though it remains to be seen. For now it looks like Dior are going to reorganize and use an "in-house" designer, such as Marc Jacobs. 

A NEW STUDIO!

-That is what I want! That is what I am looking for!
I would really like a new studio, new challenges and impulses.

For several years now, I have been working and running my business from where I live, a first floor appartment. But a big change is needed on both a personal level and workwise.

I used to have a small shop, but moved the business into greater surroundings, a big apartment and presently a smaller one.
Not obvious for the public, even though I have used the internet quite a lot and got new customers by recommendation. After all, it doesn´t bring enough orders in to have your business at home.

I need to get out, to be more busy and show what I can offer. For now I have plenty of garments hanging on the racks, waiting to find new owners.

The studio/showroom doesn´t have to be big and expensive. It could be a loft, an old industrial building, as long as it´s well located. Ideally together with other creative people.

So please spread the word out there, if you know a place or someone who might be interested. Thanks.

THE TURQUOISE FURCOAT

By Ann-charlott Sigl Brems

I have the pleasure to introduce the first contributor in my new serie: My Fashion Moment, where all you readers can participate.

In february I went to Rome with my husband, Kim and my youngest son, Alexander. I´ve been to Rome many times, but this time I wanted to show them The Vatican-museum.

I had promised Alexander, that it was his turn to get new clothes, shoes etc. I also promised that I wouldn´t look for shops. Alexander thought that I had seen everything when I was here last november.

On our way to The Vatican, I just wanted to show him a few good fashion stores in the streets leading up to Campo di Fiori. 

We passed by a shop with a sale and my eye catched something turquoise.
By that time we had only been in Rome for two hours and I had already forgotten what I promised Alexander. But I just had to find out what that turquoise was. It seemed to be a fabulous turquoise furcoat. Of course I had to try it on.

While I was trying it on, there was an old italian lady with her grandchild, that was complimenting me and the furcoat very nicely: -"carina bellisima etc." 

I just had to own that fur. Later on I was just thinking, if the old lady was payed to make me bye the fur. By the way, the fur is made of rabbit and the collar is fox. But look at it. . . Isn´t it fantastico!!!

B FOR BLOM, HOLGER BLOM

The Golden Age of Haute Couture in Denmark, was from 1930 to the 1960´s, where the three Couturiers, Holger Blom, Preben Birch and Uffe Brydegaard, also known as the three B´s ruled.

With inspiration from Paris, they made dresses for High Society and costumes for film and theater.

Holger Blom and the actress Helle Virkner

Photo: Bent Mann/The Royal Librarys Collection.

            

Holger Blom (1906-65), was seen as the master of the three couturiers. He was selftaught and devoted to beauty, good quality and crafsmanship. 

He got his breakthrough when famous danish actresses like Bodil Kjer and Helle Virkner started wearing his gowns. 

He had his own fashion salon in Copenhagen from 1930-1965 where he dressed High society and Royals. The highlight of his career was probably the wedding-dress for Princess Anne Marie of Denmark in 1964.

Photo: Central Press, Getty Images

There is not a lot of images or documention about the three B´s on the internet.

I´m curious and would like to know if any of you readers out there knew them, own or know about any garments from these three couturiers.

To know more, take a look of my posts about the Danish movie Kispus and The exhibition: H for Haute Couture at The Collection of Time, that I wrote earlier on.

A PHOTO SESSION

In 2002 I was co-organizer of and participant in a Wedding Fair that took place at the Odd fellow Mansion in Odense.
We wanted to do a small and intimate Wedding Fair as an alternative to the big ones, where you often get lost.

In connection with that, I needed some studio-photos of my dresses. Luckily one of the participating photographers offered me to take some photos at her studio, because she needed pictures like that, a win win-situation.

-And my dear friend, Trine from Copenhagen, who worked as a model once, agreed to pose. Which she did quite good, as you can see in these photos.

Model: Trine Bolander

Photos: Karen Relster

Do I need to say, the Wedding Fair turned out to be a success. A one-of-a-kind experience, but a nice one.

NINA ROBENHAGEN

I didn´t attend  last weeks Fashionweek in Copenhagen, but from what I have seen on the net, one of my favourite collections was from debutant Nina Robenhagen.

She showed a small, exclusive collection in nice colors and fabrics. Take a look of  her SS 2012  Collection here and see the fashionshow live here.

It really shows that she also has a background as a tailor. The collection looked cohesive, simple, elegant, refined and structured. We don´t see that very often.

I didn´t look at all the collections, but i also liked the contemporary collection of Benedikte Utzon and the sophisticated collection of Dennis Lyngsø. Look them up and see for yourself.

2018 Update! It seems her collection was a one-off.

ROMANTIC BRIDALGOWN

Take a look at the gown I have been working on, next to the orders I had recently. It is part of my wedding collection. 

Are  you a romantic Bride-to-be? Just imagine, wouldn't this very romantic gown be perfect for your spring-/summer wedding. The cut is pretty classic, but the nice fabric sets it apart, I think.

The gown is made out of embroidered shantung-silk and underlined with silk organdy and about a size 8/38, just waiting for the right bride, to be lined and finished.

Photos: John Frantsen